SAPS-RA-AI - Science avec et pour la société –Ambitions innovantes

Industriation of materials from organic and mineral waste for the fashion value chain – IDEOMM

Submission summary

The term "industriation" invites us to return to the sources of industry, which defines the design and production activities of
society, in order to break away from practices that are outdated by current environmental and social expectations. The project relies
on the experience of the interdisciplinary ENAMOMA program at PSL University, an engagement for creative and responsible alternatives in fashion and materials, built through the collaboration of Paris Dauphine Université Paris Dauphine – PSL, l’Ecole nationale supérieure des arts décoratifs and Mines Paris – PSL. The team proposes to extend the experiments initiated by the collaboration of a fashion designer, Mossi Traoré, with industrial players looking for solutions to revalorize organic and mineral waste in open loop. A first exploratory research was lead through an educational interdisciplinary project. It stressed the importance of approaching the development of materials by taking into account the conditions imposed by waste, while transforming it into an opportunity material with high creative and collaborative potential.
The project plans to extend and deepen the experimentations with collaborative research, with regular sharing of knowledge and interpretations and research by practice. Four steps will be associated: (1) The research will be based on a comparative analysis of the reuse of two types of waste, one organic, the other mineral, led by the same player. (2) It will define credible avenues for material development with a scientific, sensory, societal and organizational approach. (3) Experiments will put to the test the diverse applications both in terms of material and industry. (4) The results will be transformed into a guidebook for a museum structure, intended to become an immersive training tool for different types of audiences (youth, student, professional). The research will be valued in complementary journals and an exhibition will valorize the project.
Benefits are expected at several levels, with first of all the development of recycling solutions at different levels of maturity, with attention paid to industrialization and life cycle issues beyond the development of the material. An industry expert will support the project team in that direction. The project also aims to support, through its method, the evolution of the creative process in the fashion sector where actors must rethink their practices to face environmental challenges. The media coverage of the first initiatives of Mossi Traoré highlights the leading force of this type of development. The project thus aims to support the emergence of creative personalities of a new kind, able to build bridges between sectors and between actors located at different stages of the value chain, and to engage consumers in new behaviors. The construction of a customizable guidebook for amateur and expert audience finally aims to support the transformation of practices through education.

Project coordinator

Madame Colette Depeyre (Dauphine Recherches en Management)

The author of this summary is the project coordinator, who is responsible for the content of this summary. The ANR declines any responsibility as for its contents.


DRM Dauphine Recherches en Management

Help of the ANR 149,982 euros
Beginning and duration of the scientific project: December 2023 - 24 Months

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